Yodis Phere: Philippine destinations

Showing posts with label Philippine destinations. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage

I had already poked my head into enough elegant churches in Bohol and other old towns in the Philippines but I should not miss Paoay Church, although I used to think all Spanish-era churches in the Philippines are alike. San Agustin Church in Ilocos Norte, popularly known as Paoay Church is definitely unique.

The uniqueness of this church lies in the unceasing nature of its struggles against time and the history it depicts, in its dramatic architecture and the mysterious heresy hidden within its elaborate brick design.

I approached the church from a nearby dry and impotent brick fountain, excited like a virgin bride walking at the long patio decorated by white bougainvilleas at each side. Waiting for me at the other end is the pyramidal and deliberately flat church façade like an unlit altar, gray yet graceful against Ilocandia’s arid air. Above me are dark clouds stripped of its silver lining, painted like the church’s high frescoes, tragic like the life of Judas.

View of Paoay Church from the fountain

But halfway through the patio, I heard it. This church is whispering heresies of the past. Its fourteen buttresses are like old papyrus, documenting the fusion of the conquistadores and the pagans.

“Sic transit gloria mundi,” thus passes the glory of the world, wrote the monk Thomas à Kempis. The survival of churches through time, architecturally and historically, is a subject matter for the architects and historians. My reaction or theory about this specific church, about it being architecturally heretic is mine alone. But let me expound.

Paoay Church history

The Official Marker: WORLD HERITAGE SITE, Church of San Agustin Paoay Ilocos Norte. One of the four Baroque Churches of the Philippines inscribed in 1993 on the World Heritage List pursuant to the 1972 UNESCO Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage. The Church of San Agustin possesses exceptional universal value the deserves protection for the benefit of humanity.

Paoay Church is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, under the Philippines four Barqoue Churches collection composed of San Agustin Church in Manila, Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion in Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur and Sto. Tomas de Villanueva Church in Miag-ao, Iloilo. It is currently a property of the Diocese of Laoag, Ilocos Norte.

Church main altar and roof under renovation

According to the official historical marker at the entrance of the church, the parish was founded by Augustinian missionaries in 1593, cornerstone of church laid 1704; of convent, 1707; of tower, 1793. It was used before completion and kept in repair by the people under joint auspices of the Church and the town officials. An inauguration ceremony was held 28 February 1896.

The bell tower

It was damaged by earthquake in 1706 and 1927. Katipuneros used its tower as observation post during the Revolution and by Guerilleros during the Japanese occupation in World War II.

The massive coral stone bell tower, which was added half a century after the church was completed, stands at some distance from the church, again as a protection against damage during earthquakes.
According to historians, the bell tower also served as a status symbol for the locals. The bell would ring more loudly and more times during the wedding of a prominent clan that it would during the wedding of the poor.

Earthquake Baroque

As reported by Jorge Gazaneo of ICOMOS, “Philippine church is a completed example of one are peiod, but a living document of how time and context have left traces on the early founding intentions of the original designer-builder… on the cross roads of different cultures – Malay, Chinese, European, American, Mexico-Peru – the architecture and art of the Philippines should be valued on standards different from those developed by European Scholars…Unity and authenticity are difficult to be expected in theis part of the world, a violent frontier knowing the ravages of war, heavy typhoons and repeated violent earthquake destruction.”

Paoay Church is the most outstanding example in the Philippines of 'Earthquake Baroque' due to its unique combination of Gothic and Oriental designs. Its façade reveals Gothic designs, its gables show Chinese elements, while the niches topping the walls suggest Javanese influence like the towers of the famous Boroboudur Temple in Central Java, Indonesia. It is interesting to note that the town of Paoay is called "Bombay" in early documents, in keeping with the legend that the earliest inhabitants came from India.

Javanese influence on the Church's buttresses like the towers of the famous Boroboudur Temple in Central Java, Indonesia.

It has fourteen buttresses ranged along the lines of a giant volute supporting a smaller one and surmounted by pyramidal finials. Its details are inspired by the seal of Saint Agustine, the emblem of the king of Spain, the logo of the Pope, the “init-tao” or the sun god, and stylized Chinese clouds.

Fusion of the obvious

Because of its difficult terrain, arid temperature and threat of earthquakes, Ilocos was once described as a “God-forsaken land” and it is said that you have to have the “patience of a spider” in order to survive it. But Ilocanos, hardy people that they are, not only survived in this formidable land but were able to turn this highland country into “God’s own paradise”.

It is but fitting that they dedicate their church to St. Augustine. Aurelius Augustinus Hipponensis (St. Augustine), the philosopher, spoke with mechanical fluency when he proved in his book “The City of God [against the Pagans] (Book III)]” that external and bodily disasters including moral and spiritual calamities are happening to the Romans; and that even when the false gods were worshipped without a rival, before the advent of Christ, they afforded no relief from such calamities.

Naturally, they build Paoay Church to withstand and defy acts of God. The Augustinians forced the naturally-born pagans to build this church. But these converts have their own memory and obsession with heritage, beliefs and superstitions, thus the Javanese, Chinese and Oriental influences in the design.

Until now, the picturesque front garden of the San Agustin Church is being used for rituals known as the Guling-guling festival, an annual festivity that signifies the last day of merrymaking before the Catholic community's observance of the Lenten Season. There are those who conjecture that there is probably a pagan underpinning to the practice, similar to Valentine’s Day; the tradition that places the birth of Jesus in late December, the darkest time of the year; and the timing for Easter right after the vernal equinox.

Paoay Church is truly the fusion of Catholicism and the pagans.

Final Note

New developments are under way for Paoay Church aside from restoration, which aims to make the province of Ilocos Norte the country’s “northern gateway.” To generate more tourist activities, the provincial government of Ilocos Norte announced a plan to put up a commercial arcade, which would feature the town’s unique products along a stretch of the road lining the Paoay Church.

Aesthetically, I don’t know if these commercial establishments will do any good, so you have to visit Paoay before it becomes a commercial-church.

We, Filipinos are always trying to find what old memories look like… our obsession with heritage is always there, searching within the artificial and re-engineered versions created by our invaders.

Paoay Church does renders Ilocandia as forever enchanting and continues to make its visitors have a taste of past life back in times like in the decade when it was first completed.

Back in the days, when Filipinos are born pagans.

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HERE ARE THE DETAILED POSTS ABOUT OUR Ilocandia Time Travel

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References and Citations:
» Wikipedia Entry “Paoay Church” [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» UNESCO Advisory Body Evaluation. Baroque Churches of the Philippines [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» Patrimonium-mundi.org : Paoay Church panophotographies - immersive and interactive spherical images
» St. Augustine. Aurelius Augustinus Hipponensis. “De Civitate Dei contra Paganos [Concerning the] The City of God [against the Pagans] (Book III)]” Translated by Marcus Dods. From Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, First Series, Vol. 2. Edited by Philip Schaff. (Buffalo, NY: Christian Literature Publishing Co., 1887.) Revised and edited for New Advent by Kevin Knight.
» Boredpanda.com “50 Most Extraordinary Churches of the World”
» De Jesus, Noel F. Manila Bulletin “Charms of the Old World” Posted: June 5, 2011, 10:58am [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» The Philippine Star. “Guling Guling of Paoay: Truly a galing galing festivity!” Updated March 06, 2011 12:00 AM [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» Rene Guatlo “Paoay sways to Guling Guling” Inquirer Lifestyle. Philippine Daily Inquirer. 03/15/2009.
» CBCP News “300-year old Paoay Church to get facelift” Posted: March 15, 2011
» ALL PHOTOS on this post are taken by the author YODZ Insigne via Samsung Galaxy S Smartphone

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

[Mt. Pinatubo] Walking on Ashes » Why trek towards the crater of destruction

With the realization that a lot of what I do lately are mostly stressful and that a lot of my priorities are slowly dying in spite of – or perhaps because of – having been too cautious and afraid to make sudden decisions, I registered for the Mt. Pinatubo bloggers’ trek without a second thought. Also, I guess I badly need to remove myself from the mad rush of my daily routine.

However, the night before the trek I got this second thought and asked myself what the hell do I want out there in the endlessness of ashes and volcanic rocks? I’m silly and mad sometimes, I know that, and maybe this is one of those find-yourself-on-spiritual-walk kind of thing I used to do before.

So I go, though it seemed unlikely that anything spiritual might suddenly expand there on the ashes.

Memoirs of my own pilgrimage

I tend to have these clear mind and flow of ideas on long airplane ride or lazy walk, but I tend to forget them the following day. This time, I made a point to remember, made mental notes and write down all my Mt. Pinatubo trekking thoughts.

It’s been a while but I can still feel the medley of dark volcano rocks, ashes, pieces of burnt wood and dwarfed grass under my feet. Nearby was a fellow blogger fussing with his camera against the romantic rain and mud, questioning his decision in joining this Pinatubo climb. On the horizon are silhouettes of mysterious mountains, blanketed by struggling greenery, hiding behind droplets of rain and dreary fog.

The 4x4 jeep ride going to the main trail, its funny rubber wheels throwing mud at me, was a cheerful mess - like that childish euphoria when I first learn how to ride a bike. Activities like this, small things that can bring up childhood carefree feelings in our stressful adult world are priceless.

Strong lahar mudflow, during Pinatubo’s tantrum years slightly divided the terrain in half thus creating a sunken semi-flat trail now famous for trekkers. This is actually a walled trail, like a snaking rat maze slightly tilted upwards so you know where the exits are. I spied other trekkers staring at these walls of cracked volcanic ash, hardened by time and sewn together by the roots of wild talahib grass, marveling at these sacred walls.

I paused to catch my breath and stared at these walls too, and realized why human race is creating monuments of war and destruction – creating pieces of bronze art sculptures, parks, beautiful historical markers and ornate mausoleums. It is not to remind us of death and suffering but an innate desire to create beauty out of chaos.

We adopted it from nature maybe that is why we call it “human nature” – the ability to turn pain into butterflies.

Therefore I am wrong. There is some kind of spirituality on the Pinatubo ashes after all.

Why trek towards the crater of destruction

Fools rush in to Pinatubo with only one goal of having a glimpse of its fabled turquoise crater. It is worth it, that I can assure, but you don’t go walking and climbing the Pinatubo just to see the crater.

Why not use these moments of monotonous trekking and walking to expand your awareness, relax your mind, wash away the stink of your chaotic public and professional adult life and increase your experience of freedom? By slowing down your fast-paced life and focusing on each step – the journey rather than the destination – a trek to Pinatubo could be totally relaxing and can stretch more time for yourself.

Being on nature and traversing a demanding terrain has taught me that life is simple, and you can cross any pass if you have the spirit. The mysterious appearance of a place, a tiny leaf or a colored rock on a trail can reveal to you something about the complexities of life hidden within. You just have to know where to look, and how to hear the colors, and how to embrace the sounds.

Pinatubo hiking could be also intellectually invigorating and emotionally relaxing which can boost your memory and sharpens judgement. Each step can allow you to temporarily shrug off time and savor your personal solitary moment.

Moreover, this trek will not only stimulate your different senses by encouraging you to be more admiring and perceptive of the world around you but it will also give you a chance to reflect inwards and be more honest and introspective with yourself.

This is how you can best experience Mt. Pinatubo trekking – walk with intention of mindfulness.

So grab your trekking sandals and get moving. Something serene awaits you there!

Plus of course a dive into the legendary turquoise Pinatubo lake is an extra treat.

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Mount Pinatubo Pictures / Trek Photos and other related trekking experiences:

» Mt. Pinatubo Hiking Pictures and Photos by yodz : Mt Pinatubo Hiking » Capturing Beauty out of Chaos: Mobile Phone Photography

» Mt. Romelo (Famy) Laguna Hiking » How to Torture Yourself to a Trek and Be Happy About It

» Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia

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Other Pinatubo Selected Articles, Information and Links:

» Trekking Mt. Pinatubo - Trekking and Hiking Tours from Manila Philippine Adventures [http://www.trekkingpinatubo.com/]

» GMA News Online: "Mount Pinatubo still shadows lives 20 years after eruption" posted: 06/20/2011 | 12:53 PM [http://www.gmanews.tv/story/223918/nation/mount-pinatubo-still-shadows-lives-20-years-after-eruption] Retrieved: 17 August 2011

» Reyman, Roman Leo. “Face to Face with Mt. Pinatubo” posted: June 9, 2011 [http://romanleoreyman.wordpress.com/2011/06/09/face-to-face-with-mt-pinatubo/] Retrieved: 17 August 2011

Photo Credits & Citation:

» Image Source (First Image: "Beyond Reach" by n05feratu [http://n05feratu.deviantart.com/art/Beyond-Reach-2182536] Retrieved: 17 August 2011
» Other Pinatubo pictures: taken by yodz insigne via SGS mobile phone
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Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Mt. Romelo (Famy) Laguna Hiking » How to Torture Yourself to a Trek and Be Happy About It

July seems to be not a good time to experience the magic of mountains. Late July brings bitter weather and wetter days, however Mt. Romelo surprised me, even at this time of the year. Ignoring a forecast for overcast skies and crazy rains, we conquered Mt. Romelo in Siniloan Laguna. Call me crazy, but I don’t see how anyone can tolerate a sit-on-your-ass all day cubicled job staring at the computer, so yes, even if it’s raining (and a possible typhoon coming) I decided to go trekking at Mt. Romelo, a lovely mountain range which is part of the legendary Sierra Madre, known to mountaineers simply as Famy.

The sky was a bit over generous that day and gave us lots of cold rain at the jump-off. Well, we just shake it off with a bottle of The Bar vodka over a bowl of beef wanton at Ros Anthony Dimsum Kubo - how’s that for a pre-trek ceremony – cool ayt?

A round of vodka before the hike

Ready to hike..hiyaaaa!!!!

Although unconventional, it did break the ice among our group and the cool guys from Emerson Outdoor Group (EmeROG) who actually arranged the trek.

Crossing the rapids

Calmed by a round of vodka, we started the trek at around one o’clock wearing disposable raincoats and trash bags to protect us from rain. I felt my heart beating a little faster as we were doing the initial steep climb – I don’t know if it’s vodka circulating, Blair Witch Project on my mind or I’m just a little excited, it’s the latter I guess.

The torture trail

Along the narrow and muddy trail, we came across a lady riding a pony like Jesus entering Jerusalem. I instantly thought, what’s the damn point of having a wretched pony do the trek for you? Eat some mud, prima donna! Well, yes it’s none of my business, thank you. (just a pakialamero thought.)

Muddy trail - slippery when wet

Going back the trail, unfortunately it’s not your usual a-whole-new-world tra-la-la-la trail during rainy season. Like many things - when wet, it’s slippery and will make you kiss the mud. Many times we literally slide our way down and made love with the mud. We end up having muddy ass, sore feet and few bruises. But despite that, after each fall, we end up lighthearted and happy.

Bleeding leech bite and bruises

Oh, and did I mention the leeches? Well, don’t get excited ridding yourself of mud or washing too long on small streams – you may end up leech infested. Although it is not deadly, seeing trickles of blood on your arms and feet is disturbing.

View of Mt. Romelo after sunset

But don’t fret, en route you will be treated with amazing vistas of the mountain vegetation while climbing steadily through fields of talahib grass with occasional peeks into the rugged province of Laguna and the surrounding lake. And don’t forget a walk into the fog is always an extra treat like a scoop of ice cream on your halo-halo (although fogs remind me of death).

Camwhoring at Buruwisan Falls

Majestic Buruwisan Falls at the end of the Mt. Romelo trail

Also, at the heart of Mt. Romelo is the Buruwisan Falls descending majestically into a wide catchbasin. The waterfalls look like it is veiling an enclave verdant with moss and ferns hiding the magical throne of the queen fairy of Mt. Romelo. At 180 ft, it is ideal for rappelling, but we didn’t try it due to heavy rains. Our local guide told us that Buruwisan Falls is named after a hardwood variety that used to grow on the banks of Romelo River. But our other local guide has different theory, he said Buruwisan actually came from the word Buntisan because many girls got pregnant after the hike – hmmm lovemaking in the mountains eh (excitingly-sexy, I wanna try it someday weeee)

Steep trail going down Buruwisan Falls

Want to add extra trekking challenge? Do the trek descend at night, like what happened to us. Imagine this: walking in the middle of a mountain on steep, muddy and dangerous trail on a pitch-black night under the rain. That’s a real blast! (Ooops, I’m not actually endorsing it ok. I’m just extra happy because we survived it… cheers! Happy to Climb! clap clap clap)

Each step on the mud is priceless

"Each step on the mud, each fall, the laughter, the extended hand of a fellow hiker to pull you up – that is priceless"

We are in fact torturing ourselves on this Mt. Romelo trek and so happy about it. Ironic, but I guess that’s the beauty of having this hike. It will make you realize that accomplishments and success doesn’t always mean having big houses, grand vacations, luxury cars or executive position in the company. You can find feeling of accomplishment and moments of happiness on mundane things as crossing a raging stream or getting on the other side of a steep and muddy trail. Each step on the mud, each fall, the laughter, the extended hand of a fellow hiker to pull you up – that is priceless.


The uber-cool guys from Emerson & my Eastgate buddies (Eddie, Anjho, Carla, Grace, Gennell, Bern, Ruben, Mel, Kuya Vanny, Leslie and Claire) Talu-nan Happy to Climb!!! Clap Clap Clap..yes!!!

I still find this day too short for all the thoughts I want to think, the trails I want to walk, all the photos I want to take and all the new friends I want to spend more time with - yodz -

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Miscellaneous Information:

Here’s a quick information if you and your buddies are planning to conquer Mt. Romelo:

MT. ROMELO

Location: Siniloan, Laguna

Major Jump-off: Brgy. Macatad, Upland Siniloan

Elevation: 300 MASL

Days required / hours to summit: 1 day, 2-3 hours

Specs: Minor Climb, Difficulty 2/9, Trail Class 1

Note: Mt. Romelo is often referred to as Mt. Famy because the town of Famy is where mountaineers usually get off the bus from Manila. However Mt. Romelo is not even in Famy, it is already part of the adjacent town called Siniloan.

Buruwisan Falls

Has a more or less 50-meter drop suitable for rappelling

Ideal training ground for neophyte mountain climbers

The largest falls among other nearby falls: Batya-Batya, Sampaloc and Lanzones

Location : Brgy Macatad, end of Mt. Romelo (Famy) trek, Siniloan, Laguna

Our Itinerary:

Mt. Famy Dayhike (July 31, 2011)

ITINERARY

0700 Assembly at RSC

0730 ETD for Siniloan

1030 ETA jump-off point. Register (P20/person)

Lunch Break (jump off). Packed lunch.

1130 Start trek

0130 ETA Campsite. Visit Buruwisan and other Falls (if possible).

0500 Back at campsite.

0515 Start descent.

0700 ETA jump-off; tidy-up.

0730 ETD going to Manila

1000 ETA to Manila (RSC)

THINGS TO BRING:

1. Trail Water (at least 1L)

2. Packed Lunch

3. Towel

4. Trail Food (jelly ace, crackers, chocolates, chicha, etc.)

5. Extra Shirt

6. Personal Hygiene Kit

7. Personal First Aid Kit & Medicines (for emergency)

8. Extra cash

9. Isopropyl Alcohol (for the leeches)

Actual Expenses:

Van Rental : 4,300.00

Meal and Parking 200.00

Jump-off Registration 50.00

Local Guide 400.00

Shower Fee 20.00

You might also like to visit Majayjay Falls also in Laguna, check out my entry: Getting High at Majayjay » Taytay Falls, Laguna Escapade

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Related Links and More Info: [Retrieved: 02 August 2011]

» Mt. Romelo (240+): Pinoymountaineer.com – Your guide to Hiking in the Philippines [http://www.pinoymountaineer.com/2007/09/mt-romelo-240.html]

» Climb Advisory (May 2011): Theft situation in Mt. Romelo and Mt. Sembrano [Pinoymountaineer: http://www.pinoymountaineer.com/2011/05/climb-advisory-may-2011-theft-situation_18.html]

» Siniloan River: Wikipedia [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siniloan_River]

» Buruwisan Falls [http://www.worldsaurus.com/guide/Philippines/CALABARZON/Buruwisan-Falls-172.html]

Monday, May 23, 2011

Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level

“This time it was going to be different,” I thought to myself. However, when we arrived at Pagudpud beach in Saud Ilocos Norte, I instantly got the feeling, from the looks of it, that this is just another beach; maybe this is what you got when you’ve been to a number of beaches around the Philippines, or maybe I’m just tired. I’ve been to the overrated Boracay, pristine Tingloy, Bolinao, Panglao and Bantayan Island – and I can safely conclude that, basically Pagudpud is your typical bummer-swim-and-go beach. It is exciting when you first see it but becomes boring on the second day.

Because travelling are essentially dependent upon particular types of experience, does traveling a lot make our happiness level a little higher and sophisticated? Making us more critical and comparative, thus reducing fun?

Boracay of the North

With no sign of remorse whatsoever, I go out and explore what the Pagudpud beach can offer. To enjoy the place, I prefer to be more into the present and become more “there” and available. Setting aside my bias, I then saw that Pagudpud is quite unique with its outstanding views and the absence of noisy tourists.

The warm tropical sunshine and deep blue sky of Ilocos Norte make the Pagudpud waters turquoise blue and sparkling against the white sands. Above the deep blue waters are rows of bursting white waves, marching onto the Saud shores like the proud and loud Greek warriors sure of their victory. However, Saud faces the open sea and the strong current is quite treacherous so we just play with the waves.

Is Pagudpud beach the Boracay of the North? People who keep on comparing Pagudpud to Boracay are insane because if you compare these two beaches, with Boracay as more superior, you are mocking the beauty of Pagudpud.

Levels of happiness is a myth

The unique beauty of Pagudpud beach, its playful waves and Saud’s verdant mountains are the things I remembered and I later realized that to enjoy each travel experience, we should not compare. Each place has stories with which we build pictures of our travel experiences. A collage, which we are lucky to have experienced and pieced together. Attached to each piece are simple luxuries as that walking in the beach, conversation with friends, amazing sunsets, rhum-coke or vodka.

Is there any ways of detecting your average summer happiness level? For me, there’s none. That question is just a metaphor, a fantasy, a hallucination perhaps, because of course there aren't any levels at all and the experiences that travel gave us, all is equal.

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HERE ARE THE DETAILED POSTS ABOUT OUR Ilocandia Time Travel

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