Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past

This little place in Ilocos Sur seems to be on every tourists’ list of must-visit Ilocos tour agenda but we put it on the last part of our Ilocandia two-day itinerary – and we didn’t regret saving the best for last. Definitely, a sojourn to Ilocandia is incomplete without a nostalgic walk down the cobblestone streets of Calle Crisologo and the neat rows of ancestral houses in Vigan, Ilocos Sur, aptly called the “heritage village.”

The setting sun was already painting the sky with striking hues of orange and blue when we reached the heritage village, adding an antiquated aura to the place. For me walking on a street carpeted by cobblestones is a kind of time travel, hence I immediately set foot to the villages’ cobblestone street, which reminded me of the stone patios of Intramuros in Manila –  but this one seems older and always freshly raped by constant tourists’ excited feet.

Calle Crisologo is a major destination in Ilocos Sur and is always crowded with visitors. You can hear them chatting, laughing, camwhoring and bargaining - moving left and right in perpetual motion.  I instantly wish I could walk on these streets alone, but I know it is impossible. So it would be nice to just lose myself on these crowd of tourists that always seemed to be there.

Most of the mansions have this old wooden bench outside

I just let myself float mentally, imagining myself having nice hot cup of kapeng barako, sitting somewhere quiet. Anonymous, alone.

Why Vigan is famous

Vigan, a town established in the 16th century, and was named after a giant plant bigaa, growing abundantly on the banks of Mestizo River, is the no. 4 tourist destination in the Philippines, followed by Palawan, Cebu and Bohol, according to the Department of Tourism.

Calle Crisologo cobblestone street (Photo Credit: Bar Surco Mobile phone)

Built in varying Spanish, Mexican, and Chinese architectural styles, thick brick walls, tile roofs, and red clay, the Vigan mansions stand side by side each other as if frozen in time. According to UNESCO, Vigan’s architecture reflects the coming together of cultural elements from elsewhere in the Philippines, from China and from Europe, resulting in a culture and townscape that have no parallel anywhere in East and South-East Asia.

All Vigan houses have similar proportions (height, massing and roof shape). They share related architectural detailing, and are built of terracotta, wood, shells, stone and lime, all obtained from the surrounding area.

Since it was inscribed on the World Heritage List as the "Historic Town of Vigan," the government has realized the universal value of its heritage. Legislation such as the “No vehicle inside the town” policy was being enforced to preserve that heritage which is appreciated by tourists. 

Heritage Village (Calle Crisologo) night scene

Recently, Vigan LGU belies the controversial comment of Harry Thomas, the new U.S. ambassador to the Philippines, saying 40 percent of male tourists visit the country for sex. They reiterated that tourists flock the former Ciudad Fernandina, hailed as “Living Museum”, not because of the sex industry, but for the Vigan Heritage Village, included in the World Heritage List of UNESCO.

Calle Crisologo: Time-travel street

Calle Crisologo, a street named after Mena Crisologo – popular writer and politician, also known as the Ilocano Shakespeare – is the most famous street in the heritage village.

I really enjoyed our back-in-time walk on this cobblestone street while marveling at the Spanish-era buildings and houses on both sides. All structures are old but still pretty much intact and preserved. Walking down this street made me think I were thrown back in time, back to the Spanish era.

Yodi at Calle Crisologo

It’s a good thing the street is closed to modern traffic. Only a kalesa or caritela (horse-drawn carriages) are allowed to pass through this brick-paved thoroughfare. 

This is the only place in the Philippines where there is a Calesa parking.  

Disappointing shops

Souvenir shops at Calle Crisologo selling Vigan’s products (antiques, abel woven products, bags, basi wine, burnay and dimili products, chicharon, jewelry, sweets, Vigan vinegar and woodcrafts)

No, I’m not disappointed because I didn’t get the souvenir item I want but because of too many souvenir stores along Calle Crisologo making the street look like an organized Divisoria. Almost all the ancestral houses have turned their ground floors into antique and souvenir stores. 

Max's Restaurant at the back of Leona Florentino (Ilocano poetess and playwright) monument

Mang Inasal fastfood in Vigan

There are also fastfood chains, such as the Mang Inasal and Max’s along Calle Crisologo and not far are the ever-present McDo and Jollibee. Commercialization really beats historical preservation.

It would be nice if they just made these ancestral houses into museums, cultural stops or something like that. We must be very thankful that it has survived the wrath and destruction of the Second World War but it seems that it cannot survive the destructive effect of consumerism.

A real blast from the past

Eastgate backpackers souvenir photo (Aldan, Bern, Anjho, Abby, Gara and Bar)

The past is always with us and it’s a good thing we still live among its remains. For most of us who are fascinated by the concept of time, we strive to understand it, and because time-travel is not yet an option what we do is to travel and visit old places.

A quick visit to Vigan is truly a blast from the past, aside of course from other exciting things and places it can offer.  Vigan, with its centuries-old edifices, is truly a breathing reminder of what was once a royal city.

Truly a place worth visiting! Byahe na!

UNESCO Heritage Village of Vigan in Philippines

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More of our Ilocandia Time Travel :

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos 

_________________________________

References and Citations: 

» Historic Town of Vigan. UNESCO World Heritage List.

» UNESCO News: World Heritage Committee Inscribes 48 New Sites on Heritage List Thursday, December 2, 1999

» Vigan City Official Website

» U.S. News Las Vegas: “Vigan Heritage Village, attraction for legitimate tourists, not for sex tourism” By Ben P. Pacris, PIA and U.S. News Agency / Asian

» Wikitravel Article: Vigan Travel Guide  – Quick travel information and guide to Vigan

» A glimpse of Ilocos in four days By VIC ALBORNOZ LACTAOEN

» Pride of Place - Vigan-a Unesco World Heritage Site By Augusto Villalon Philippine Daily Inquirer

» Calle Crisologo - Mena Crisologo Street.

» Mena Pecson Crisologo. Ilocano Writer and Politician. National Historical Institute 

» UNESCO Heritage Village of Vigan Virtual walkthrough 

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Rediscover the North » Lakbay Norte 3: Outdoor Adventures of the North Blogger Contest

The North Philippines Visitor Bureau (NPVB) is a non-stock, non-profit organization created in 2006. Founded by the Manila North Tollways Corporation (MNTC), NPVB was created for the purpose of promoting tourism in North and Central Luzon, primarily through meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions (MICE) and by enhancing the visitor experience in the region.
 

One of their major projects is the Lakbay Norte , an 8-day, 8-night media familiarization tour of North Philippines for 20 travel media writers and bloggers on board a Victory Liner bus.

The third staging of Lakbay Norte is scheduled for January 22 to 30, 2012.

So for all the Filipino travel bloggers out there, you may want to try your luck here. I'm also planning to join this contest -- wish me luck!

  

Blogger Contest Mechanics:

On January 22-30, 2012, the North Philippines Visitor’s Bureau (NPVB) in cooperation with Manila North Tollways Corporation and Victory Liner will be holding Lakbay Norte 3. A 9-day Media Tour of North Philippines.

During this event, NPVB will bring a bus load of media participants from broadsheet, TV, travel magazines, and blogs to produce over 100 articles and features about North and Central Luzon.

This year, NPVB will be choosing six lucky bloggers to join the much awaited Lakbay Norte 3: Outdoor Adventures of the North. This familiarization tour is inclusive of transportation around North Luzon from Manila and back, food, lodging, and activities included in the itinerary, excluding personal expenses. Winners who do not reside in Manila will have to fly themselves to Manila at their own expense.

Description of the Terms and Conditions for the Lakbay Norte 3 Blog Contest

Application for the Lakbay Norte 3 Blog Contest (“Competition”) is open to each individual blogger (“Participant” or collectively “Participants”) at www.northphilippines.org (“Website”). A “Participant” is defined as an individual blogger who has accepted experience in writing tourism, adventure, or sports tourism related blog/s in English language and/or bloggers’ local language.

The Competition will be organized by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB) and sponsored by sponsors of the North Philippines Visitors Bureau for this Competition (“Sponsor”). The Competition process will operate as follows:

The submission period to apply as a Participant begins on October 7, 2011 and ends on October 31, 2011 at 11:59 PM (GMT +8) (“Submission Period”).

Review of Submissions and Notification of the Finalists Submissions will be reviewed and judged by a committee consisting of representatives from the NPVB and the media (“Judging Committee”), on an ongoing basis throughout the Submission Period. The twenty (20) selected Participants (“Finalists” or individually “Finalist”) who will participate in the Competition will be notified by the NPVB via email as well as by an announcement posted on Website on or around November 5, 2011.

Notification of the Winners. The competition period to select the winning Finalists will start on November 16, 2010 and last until December 18, 2011 11:59 PM (GMT+8). The winning Finalists (“Winner” or “Winners”) will be notified by the NPVB via email as well as by an announcement posted on the Website and NPVB’s Facebook page on or around December 23, 2011.

1.Participant’s Eligibility: 

1.1 Participants must be available to travel in North Philippines from approximately January 22-30, 2012 in case they win and become part of Lakbay Norte 3 Media fam tour. Participant must complete the Fam Tour.

1.2 Competition is open to Participants of any nationality residing in the Philippines who have reached the age of 18 by the time of submitting his or her application form.

1.3 Participants should are bloggers and have experience in writing tourism, adventure, or sports tourism related blog/s in English language and/or Filipino.

1.4 All Participants are required to provide their true personal details (i.e. name, e-mail, country of citizenship, gender, age, profession, and address). Any invalid, untruthful, or incomplete entry will result in disqualification.

1.5 Participants must be fit to travel at the time of the Lakbay Norte 3 Fam Tour otherwise they are disqualified from joining Lakbay Norte 3.

1.6 All Competition criteria must be fulfilled. Failure to perform any criteria may render a submitted entry ineligible for prize consideration.

1.7 Application is limited to one (1) submission per Participant; individual Participants cannot submit multiple applications, and whose blog the Participant represents has been in existence for at least one (1) year from the start of the Competition (Nov 1, 2011).

1.8 Applicants are required to provide complete and accurate information about their professional background and associations, submitted blog and blog performance as required by the Official Rules of the Competition (“Official Rules”). Participants’ submissions must be their original work; unoriginal entries and/or submissions will be rejected by NPVB.

1.9 Previous participants of Lakbay Norte are not qualified to join the contest.

Each Applicant shall make full and honest disclosure of particulars as requested in the Competition. Any misrepresentation of any facts or particulars may result in disqualification, forfeiture or withdrawal of any prize won at the sole discretion of NPVB

2. Participation Instructions and Requirements of Submission: 

2.1 To participate, visit the Website during the Submission Period (October 7 – October 31, 2011) at http://www.northphilippines.org/lakbaynorte3contest and download the application form. Application requirements must be submitted on or before Oct 31, 2011 11:59 (GMT +8) to info@northphilippines.org with the subject: “My Official Entry to Lakbay Norte 3 Blogger Contest”

2. 2 Each Participant is required to submit the following:

• Accomplished application form
• Links to 5 of your best blog entries (all in the same blog) with photos
• Screenshot of your google analytics showing the URL of your blog

Also participants are required to post an entry in their blogs announcing the Lakbay Norte 3 blog contest.

2.3 Each Participant is required to be present in all processes and procedures of submission and will serve as the primary contact of NPVB.

Failure to submit any of these requirements will render automatic disqualification of the entry.

2.4 Note that the Judging Committee will also take into consideration the above information as part of the criteria in selecting the Finalists.

2.5 The Participants may submit only one entry in the Competition. Only the application submitted originally will be considered an eligible entry. Subsequent applications will be disqualified from selection in the Competition.

3. Judging, Selection, and Notification of Finalists

3.1 Submissions will be judged by representatives of NPVB and the media (“Judging Committee”) to select up to twenty (20) Finalists.

3.2 Submissions will be judged equally on the following four criteria:

• Blogging experience and accomplishments (based on your submitted blog URL which will be verified by the Judging Committee)

• Knowledge about Tourism, Adventure, Sports Tourism

• Blog Content

        • Enthusiasm

3.3 The twenty (20) Participants selected as Finalists will be announced on the Website and be contacted via email on or about November 5, 2011.

3.4 The Finalists will be required to respond to the notification as directed by NPVB within the given period of time. Failure to respond timely to the notification may result in forfeiture of the opportunity to be selected as Finalists and in such case NPVB reserve the right to declare alternate Finalists.

3.5 The Finalists will be required to enter into a contract with NPVB called the “Finalist Agreement” which will be sent via email to be returned complete within a given period of time to be able to go ahead with the Competition. Failure to accept the Finalist Agreement shall result in forfeiture of the opportunity to be selected as Finalists and, in such case, NPVB reserve the right to declare alternate Finalists.

4. Selection and Notification of the Winners of the Lakbay Norte 3 Blogger Contest

4.1 The blog visiting / best blog content selection will last from November 16, 2010 to December 18, 2011. 11:59 (GMT +8)

4.2 Each finalists will be given a finalist number from 1-20 with no particular order.

4.3 Each of the twenty (20) Finalists will submit a 500-word article with the theme “Why I want to visit North Philippines” accompanied with up to 2-3 photos which NPVB will post as a Facebook Note in the North Philippines facebook page together with their profile and finalist number. This will be the Finalist’s official entries.

4.4 Finalist’s entries may receive one vote per profile from the voting Public by way of “likes”.

To receive a vote, an individual must go to the North Philippines Facebook page ang “like” the page first. Then, he can go to the specific post of a Finalist and “like” that entry. Each facebook like to their entry will receive one vote. Each individual can vote more than one Finalist.

4.5 There will be six (6) winners to Lakbay Norte 3 Blogger Competition

• Top Likes: Two winners with the most number of “likes” in their facebook entries

• Best Blog Content: Two winners with the best content and blog consistency

• Sponsor’s Choice: Two winners will be picked by NPVB and/or its sponsors

4.6 The best blog content and consistency will be selected by the Judging Committee with the criteria as follows:

• Quality of the content

• In-depth knowledge

• Persuasion

4.7 The Winners chosen by NPVB sponsors will be at the sole discretion of the Sponsor.

4.8 The Finalists whose entries have the most number of likes at the end of the Competition as stated will be declared winners for the “likes” category.

4.9 In the case of tie-breakers, NPVB reserves the right to choose and declare the winners.

4.10 The Winners will be announced on the Website and will be contacted via email on or around December 23, 2012 to confirm eligibility and compliance with the Official Rules.

4.11 Winners will be required to enter into a contract with NPVB called the “Winner’s Agreement” and, unless prohibited by law, a publicity release and other documents as specified by NPVB “Agreement”, all of which will be sent via email, to be returned complete within a given period of time.

4.12 The Winners will be required to respond as directed by NPVB to the notifications within given periods of time. Failure to respond in a timely fashion to the notifications may result in forfeiture of the opportunity and, in such case, NPVB may declare an alternate Winner.

4.13 Blog content review and “likes” counting mechanics and execution will be done at the sole discretion of NPVB

4.14 Decision(s) made by NPVB will be considered final.

Summary of Competition Dates:

Application Period:Oct 7-Oct 31

Pre-Selection: starts as soon as entries come in until Nov 4

Notification of Finalists – Nov 5

Article Preparation – Nov 6-14

Uploading of Entries in Facebook – Nov 15

Contest Period: Nov 16 – Dec 18

Judging Period: Dec 19 – Dec 21

Winners Informed: Dec 23

Lakbay Norte 3: Jan 22-30

TENTATIVE ITINERARY for Lakbay Norte 3

Exact Location of activities, restaurants, and hotels will not be revealed at time until final confirmation.

Side trips are not yet included in this itinerary

View past Itineraries: Lakbay Norte 1, Lakbay Norte 2

Day 1, January 22, Sunday

Call Time
Departure in Manila
Travel Manila-Bulacan
Trekking and Rappelling in Bulacan
Lunch on site
Travel Bulacan-Nueva Ecija
Firing Range at Cabanatuan
Freshen-up at Microtel Cabanatuan
Dinner in Cabanatuan
Travel Time Cabanatuan-Tuguegarao
Check-in at Hotel in Tuguegarao, Rest

Day 2, January 23, Monday

Call Time
Breakfast
White Water Rafting in Kalinga
Lunch on site
Wash up
Dinner in Tuguegarao
Return to hotel

Day 3, January 24, Tuesday

Call Time
Breakfast
Travel Tuguegarao-Pagudpud
Lunch at Pagudpud (Blue Lagoon)
Beach Bumming / Beach Activities
Travel Pagudpud-Laoag
Dinner and Videoke
Check-in at hotel in Laoag

Day 4, January 25, Wednesday

Call Time
Breakfast at Hotel
Biking / Kayaking in Laoag
Wash up at hotel
Lunch
Travel Laoag-La Union
Check-in and Dinner at La Union

Day 5, January 26, Thursday

Call Time
Breakfast at Hotel
Activity in La Union
Lunch on site
Travel La Union-Baguio
Airsoft
Check-in and Rest at Hotel
Dinner
Ghost Hunting Tour

Day 6, January 27, Friday

Call Time
Travel Baguio-La Union
Breakfast
Travel Time Baguio-Pangasinan
Bangus Harvest
Lunch on site
Travel Pangasinan-Tarlac
Dinner in Tarlac
Check in at Tarlac

Day 7, January 28, Saturday

Call Time
Breakfast at Hotel
Go Kart
Travel Tarlac-Subic
Lunch at Subic
Jungle Survival
Thai Spa
Travel Subic-Clark
Dinner at Clark
Check in at Hotel in Clark

Day 8, January 29, Sunday

Call Time
Breakfast at Hotel
Off Road 4×4 in Angeles
Lunch in Clark
Travel Clark-Pampanga
River Cruise
Dinner in a Farm
Shopping
Depart for Manila

Final Itinerary will be announced once it is complete and confirmed. Tour may extend for a total of  9 days.

________________

Disclaimer: Above information are correct at the time of posting. For updates check out the official NPVB announcement or check their official website at: http://northphilippines.org/

Source: NorthPhilippines.org  [Retrieved: 07 October 2011]

Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos

If there is one lesson I have discovered over my travel experiences is that you need to be very creative when coordinating your gigs in order to cover and experience what a place can offer. For instance, a place like Ilocos offers lots of interesting spots to visit so if you are there for a quick weekend getaway you need to apply guerilla tactics to truly enjoy Ilocandia’s chopsuey of travel destinations.

So we’ve already successfully visited Ilocos Norte’s major tourist destinations starting from Laoag to Pagudpud going to Batac. Based on our Ilocos Tour Itinerary, our final destination before heading back to Manila is the famous Calle Crisologo in Vigan City – yep, we saved the best for last.

Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur (Laoag - Vigan) Tourist Map - CLICK IMAGE TO VIEW LARGER MAP

However, we found out that there are other interesting places in Ilocos that we can quickly visit on our way to the famous Vigan Heritage Village.

Here are the five interesting places in Ilocos that you can quickly visit on your way out going to Manila:      

1. ILOCOS NORTE SAND DUNES – The Desert of the North 

The Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes, also called the La Paz sand dunes, is unique on this part of the Philippines. It stretches from the municipality of Currimao in the north and winds it’s way to La Paz, Laoag City, then to Suba, Paoay and finally in Pasuquin in the south with a total of 52 square miles.

Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes

This is also the favorite shooting location for local as well as international films such as the Nora Aunor’s “Walang Himala” flick, Fernado Poe’s “Panday” and Tom Cruise’s “Born on the Fourth of July.” The area is now famous for sandboarding and other eco-adventure activities.

We got lost looking for this place and when we saw some sandy hills, we just took pictures and immediately leave because we can’t stand the heat.

2. MALACAÑANG PALACE OF THE NORTH

Along the lazy shores of Paoay Lake stands an imposing structure that remains true to the old-rich Spanish architecture of the province — the Malacañang of the North, also known in the local dialect as Malacañang ti Amianan.

Back Entrance of the Malacañang of the North

It romantically overlooks serene Paoay Lake and was the residence of former President Marcos and his family while they were in the North. It reflects the grandeur of the Marcos family - the power they once held, the wealth that they possess, and the love and reverence of the Ilocanos for the Marcoses. The Malacanang of the North is actually a "birthday gift" of then First Lady Imelda Marcos to her husband on his 60th birthday.When it was built in 1977, Malacanang of the North became the venue of the trendiest high society settings.

3. PAGBURNAYAN POTTERY

Potter showing his skills

For a quaint Ilocandia travel experience and interaction with the craftsmen, a visit to the Pagburnayan (pottery making) in Vigan City is a nice option. We quickly visited this place and was treated with a show of Ilocano craftsmanship in pottery making using old school manual potter’s wheel method. 

Finished clay pots ready for shipment

The root word “burnay” is an earthenware jar crafted by a potter’s hands with the aid of a potter’s wheel. It uses fine sand (anay) as a tempering material and fired at a high temperature in a huge brick-and-clay ground kiln that makes it is harder and more durable than other terra cotta.

Curio items outside the pottery

This is also the place where you can buy clay pots, statues, home accents and other curio items at give-away prices. 

4. BALUARTE – Chavit Singson’s Zoo

Baluarte ni Chavit - Main Ground

I am always against zoos and caged animals, but since we are at the area, we took a peek at Chavit’s expensive hobby – his famous Baluarte located in Salindeg, Vigan.

Showy Rare White Peacock is the favorite among the animals

It is a large chunk of Vigan set in rolling terrains, hills and mountain sides with structures and facilities that tries to imitate, without success, the natural habitat of wild and exotic animals  - really entertaining for children.

5. The HIDDEN GARDEN in Vigan

Beautiful ornamental plants at the Hidden Garden

Hidden Garden is Located in Bulala (a barrio known for its making of bricks, pots, and other objects made of clay). It is a wonderland of greenery, with a mini-snack bar nestled somewhere in the middle. The whole garden is full of decorative flowering plants, bonsai, and other shrubs set in garden pots, appropriately accented by garden statues and decorations.

Hidden Garden Cafe and Restaurant serving Ilocos cuisine

Hidden Garden definitely has a relaxing ambiance. Hence, dining experience at their restaurant would be awesome but we are in a hurry so we just took some pictures. 

FINAL NOTE

There are other interesting places you can visit in Vigan City, such as the Father Jose Burgos Museum, Mirra Hills and St. Paul Cathedral if you have time. But if you are on a two-day guerilla tour like us, you might want to trim the list down. Of course you wouldn’t want to miss Calle Crisologo which is the most famous (and overrated) tourist spot in Vigan.

On my next post, I will be sharing my memory lane walk at Calle Crisologo, which will be the last post on this Ilocos Tour series. Stay tuned! 


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Planning an Ilocos Tour? 

You might want to check out my detailed account of our Ilocandia Time Travel Series

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past 

.__________________
 Citations:
» Laoag Vigan Tourist map courtesy of EZMaps

Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage

I had already poked my head into enough elegant churches in Bohol and other old towns in the Philippines but I should not miss Paoay Church, although I used to think all Spanish-era churches in the Philippines are alike. San Agustin Church in Ilocos Norte, popularly known as Paoay Church is definitely unique.  

The uniqueness of this church lies in the unceasing nature of its struggles against time and the history it depicts, in its dramatic architecture and the mysterious heresy hidden within its elaborate brick design.
 
I approached the church from a nearby dry and impotent brick fountain, excited like a virgin bride walking at the long patio decorated by white bougainvilleas at each side. Waiting for me at the other end is the pyramidal and deliberately flat church façade like an unlit altar, gray yet graceful against Ilocandia’s arid air. Above me are dark clouds stripped of its silver lining, painted like the church’s high frescoes, tragic like the life of Judas.

View of Paoay Church from the fountain

But halfway through the patio, I heard it. This church is whispering heresies of the past. Its fourteen buttresses are like old papyrus, documenting the fusion of the conquistadores and the pagans.

“Sic transit gloria mundi,” thus passes the glory of the world, wrote the monk Thomas à Kempis. The survival of churches through time, architecturally and historically, is a subject matter for the architects and historians. My reaction or theory about this specific church, about it being architecturally heretic is mine alone. But let me expound.

Paoay Church history

The Official Marker: WORLD HERITAGE SITE, Church of San Agustin Paoay Ilocos Norte. One of the four Baroque Churches of the Philippines inscribed in 1993 on the World Heritage List pursuant to the 1972 UNESCO Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage. The Church of San Agustin possesses exceptional universal value the deserves protection for the benefit of humanity. 

Paoay Church is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, under the Philippines four Barqoue Churches collection composed of San Agustin Church in Manila, Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion in Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur and Sto. Tomas de Villanueva Church in Miag-ao, Iloilo. It is currently a property of the Diocese of Laoag, Ilocos Norte.

Church main altar and roof under renovation

According to the official historical marker at the entrance of the church, the parish was founded by Augustinian missionaries in 1593, cornerstone of church laid 1704; of convent, 1707; of tower, 1793. It was used before completion and kept in repair by the people under joint auspices of the Church and the town officials. An inauguration ceremony was held 28 February 1896.

The bell tower

It was damaged by earthquake in 1706 and 1927. Katipuneros used its tower as observation post during the Revolution and by Guerilleros during the Japanese occupation in World War II.    

The massive coral stone bell tower, which was added half a century after the church was completed, stands at some distance from the church, again as a protection against damage during earthquakes.
According to historians, the bell tower also served as a status symbol for the locals. The bell would ring more loudly and more times during the wedding of a prominent clan that it would during the wedding of the poor.

Earthquake Baroque

As reported by Jorge Gazaneo of ICOMOS, “Philippine church is a completed example of one are peiod, but a living document of how time and context have left traces on the early founding intentions of the original designer-builder… on the cross roads of different cultures – Malay, Chinese, European, American, Mexico-Peru – the architecture and art of the Philippines should be valued on standards different from those developed by European Scholars…Unity and authenticity are difficult to be expected in theis part of the world, a violent frontier knowing the ravages of war, heavy typhoons and repeated violent earthquake destruction.”

Paoay Church is the most outstanding example in the Philippines of 'Earthquake Baroque' due to its unique combination of Gothic and Oriental designs. Its façade reveals Gothic designs, its gables show Chinese elements, while the niches topping the walls suggest Javanese influence like the towers of the famous Boroboudur Temple in Central Java, Indonesia. It is interesting to note that the town of Paoay is called "Bombay" in early documents, in keeping with the legend that the earliest inhabitants came from India.

Javanese influence on the Church's buttresses like the towers of the famous Boroboudur Temple in Central Java, Indonesia.

It has fourteen buttresses ranged along the lines of a giant volute supporting a smaller one and surmounted by pyramidal finials. Its details are inspired by the seal of Saint Agustine, the emblem of the king of Spain, the logo of the Pope, the “init-tao” or the sun god, and stylized Chinese clouds.

Fusion of the obvious

Because of its difficult terrain, arid temperature and threat of earthquakes, Ilocos was once described as a “God-forsaken land” and it is said that you have to have the “patience of a spider” in order to survive it. But Ilocanos, hardy people that they are, not only survived in this formidable land but were able to turn this highland country into “God’s own paradise”.

It is but fitting that they dedicate their church to St. Augustine. Aurelius Augustinus Hipponensis (St. Augustine), the philosopher, spoke with mechanical fluency when he proved in his book “The City of God [against the Pagans] (Book III)]” that external and bodily disasters including moral and spiritual calamities are happening to the Romans; and that even when the false gods were worshipped without a rival, before the advent of Christ, they afforded no relief from such calamities.

 
Naturally, they build Paoay Church to withstand and defy acts of God. The Augustinians forced the naturally-born pagans to build this church. But these converts have their own memory and obsession with heritage, beliefs and superstitions, thus the Javanese, Chinese and Oriental influences in the design. 

Until now, the picturesque front garden of the San Agustin Church is being used for rituals known as the Guling-guling festival, an annual festivity that signifies the last day of merrymaking before the Catholic community's observance of the Lenten Season. There are those who conjecture that there is probably a pagan underpinning to the practice, similar to Valentine’s Day; the tradition that places the birth of Jesus in late December, the darkest time of the year; and the timing for Easter right after the vernal equinox. 

Paoay Church is truly the fusion of Catholicism and the pagans.

Final Note

New developments are under way for Paoay Church aside from restoration, which aims to make the province of Ilocos Norte the country’s “northern gateway.” To generate more tourist activities, the provincial government of Ilocos Norte announced a plan to put up a commercial arcade, which would feature the town’s unique products along a stretch of the road lining the Paoay Church.

Aesthetically, I don’t know if these commercial establishments will do any good, so you have to visit Paoay before it becomes a commercial-church. 

We, Filipinos are always trying to find what old memories look like… our obsession with heritage is always there, searching within the artificial and re-engineered versions created by our invaders.

Paoay Church does renders Ilocandia as forever enchanting and continues to make its visitors have a taste of past life back in times like in the decade when it was first completed. 

Back in the days, when Filipinos are born pagans.

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HERE ARE THE DETAILED POSTS ABOUT OUR  Ilocandia Time Travel

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos 
• Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past

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References and Citations:
» Wikipedia Entry “Paoay Church” [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» UNESCO Advisory Body Evaluation. Baroque Churches of the Philippines [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» Patrimonium-mundi.org : Paoay Church panophotographies - immersive and interactive spherical images
» St. Augustine. Aurelius Augustinus Hipponensis.  “De Civitate Dei contra Paganos [Concerning the] The City of God [against the Pagans] (Book III)]” Translated by Marcus Dods. From Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, First Series, Vol. 2. Edited by Philip Schaff. (Buffalo, NY: Christian Literature Publishing Co., 1887.) Revised and edited for New Advent by Kevin Knight.
» Boredpanda.com “50 Most Extraordinary Churches of the World”
» De Jesus, Noel F. Manila Bulletin “Charms of the Old World” Posted: June 5, 2011, 10:58am [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» The Philippine Star. “Guling Guling of Paoay: Truly a galing galing festivity!” Updated March 06, 2011 12:00 AM [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» Rene Guatlo “Paoay sways to Guling Guling” Inquirer Lifestyle. Philippine Daily Inquirer. 03/15/2009.
» CBCP News “300-year old Paoay Church to get facelift” Posted: March 15, 2011
» ALL PHOTOS on this post are taken by the author YODZ Insigne via Samsung Galaxy S Smartphone