Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past

This little place in Ilocos Sur seems to be on every tourists’ list of must-visit Ilocos tour agenda but we put it on the last part of our Ilocandia two-day itinerary – and we didn’t regret saving the best for last. Definitely, a sojourn to Ilocandia is incomplete without a nostalgic walk down the cobblestone streets of Calle Crisologo and the neat rows of ancestral houses in Vigan, Ilocos Sur, aptly called the “heritage village.”

The setting sun was already painting the sky with striking hues of orange and blue when we reached the heritage village, adding an antiquated aura to the place. For me walking on a street carpeted by cobblestones is a kind of time travel, hence I immediately set foot to the villages’ cobblestone street, which reminded me of the stone patios of Intramuros in Manila –  but this one seems older and always freshly raped by constant tourists’ excited feet.

Calle Crisologo is a major destination in Ilocos Sur and is always crowded with visitors. You can hear them chatting, laughing, camwhoring and bargaining - moving left and right in perpetual motion.  I instantly wish I could walk on these streets alone, but I know it is impossible. So it would be nice to just lose myself on these crowd of tourists that always seemed to be there.

Most of the mansions have this old wooden bench outside

I just let myself float mentally, imagining myself having nice hot cup of kapeng barako, sitting somewhere quiet. Anonymous, alone.

Why Vigan is famous

Vigan, a town established in the 16th century, and was named after a giant plant bigaa, growing abundantly on the banks of Mestizo River, is the no. 4 tourist destination in the Philippines, followed by Palawan, Cebu and Bohol, according to the Department of Tourism.

Calle Crisologo cobblestone street (Photo Credit: Bar Surco Mobile phone)

Built in varying Spanish, Mexican, and Chinese architectural styles, thick brick walls, tile roofs, and red clay, the Vigan mansions stand side by side each other as if frozen in time. According to UNESCO, Vigan’s architecture reflects the coming together of cultural elements from elsewhere in the Philippines, from China and from Europe, resulting in a culture and townscape that have no parallel anywhere in East and South-East Asia.

All Vigan houses have similar proportions (height, massing and roof shape). They share related architectural detailing, and are built of terracotta, wood, shells, stone and lime, all obtained from the surrounding area.

Since it was inscribed on the World Heritage List as the "Historic Town of Vigan," the government has realized the universal value of its heritage. Legislation such as the “No vehicle inside the town” policy was being enforced to preserve that heritage which is appreciated by tourists. 

Heritage Village (Calle Crisologo) night scene

Recently, Vigan LGU belies the controversial comment of Harry Thomas, the new U.S. ambassador to the Philippines, saying 40 percent of male tourists visit the country for sex. They reiterated that tourists flock the former Ciudad Fernandina, hailed as “Living Museum”, not because of the sex industry, but for the Vigan Heritage Village, included in the World Heritage List of UNESCO.

Calle Crisologo: Time-travel street

Calle Crisologo, a street named after Mena Crisologo – popular writer and politician, also known as the Ilocano Shakespeare – is the most famous street in the heritage village.

I really enjoyed our back-in-time walk on this cobblestone street while marveling at the Spanish-era buildings and houses on both sides. All structures are old but still pretty much intact and preserved. Walking down this street made me think I were thrown back in time, back to the Spanish era.

Yodi at Calle Crisologo

It’s a good thing the street is closed to modern traffic. Only a kalesa or caritela (horse-drawn carriages) are allowed to pass through this brick-paved thoroughfare. 

This is the only place in the Philippines where there is a Calesa parking.  

Disappointing shops

Souvenir shops at Calle Crisologo selling Vigan’s products (antiques, abel woven products, bags, basi wine, burnay and dimili products, chicharon, jewelry, sweets, Vigan vinegar and woodcrafts)

No, I’m not disappointed because I didn’t get the souvenir item I want but because of too many souvenir stores along Calle Crisologo making the street look like an organized Divisoria. Almost all the ancestral houses have turned their ground floors into antique and souvenir stores. 

Max's Restaurant at the back of Leona Florentino (Ilocano poetess and playwright) monument

Mang Inasal fastfood in Vigan

There are also fastfood chains, such as the Mang Inasal and Max’s along Calle Crisologo and not far are the ever-present McDo and Jollibee. Commercialization really beats historical preservation.

It would be nice if they just made these ancestral houses into museums, cultural stops or something like that. We must be very thankful that it has survived the wrath and destruction of the Second World War but it seems that it cannot survive the destructive effect of consumerism.

A real blast from the past

Eastgate backpackers souvenir photo (Aldan, Bern, Anjho, Abby, Gara and Bar)

The past is always with us and it’s a good thing we still live among its remains. For most of us who are fascinated by the concept of time, we strive to understand it, and because time-travel is not yet an option what we do is to travel and visit old places.

A quick visit to Vigan is truly a blast from the past, aside of course from other exciting things and places it can offer.  Vigan, with its centuries-old edifices, is truly a breathing reminder of what was once a royal city.

Truly a place worth visiting! Byahe na!

UNESCO Heritage Village of Vigan in Philippines

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More of our Ilocandia Time Travel :

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos 

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References and Citations: 

» Historic Town of Vigan. UNESCO World Heritage List.

» UNESCO News: World Heritage Committee Inscribes 48 New Sites on Heritage List Thursday, December 2, 1999

» Vigan City Official Website

» U.S. News Las Vegas: “Vigan Heritage Village, attraction for legitimate tourists, not for sex tourism” By Ben P. Pacris, PIA and U.S. News Agency / Asian

» Wikitravel Article: Vigan Travel Guide  – Quick travel information and guide to Vigan

» A glimpse of Ilocos in four days By VIC ALBORNOZ LACTAOEN

» Pride of Place - Vigan-a Unesco World Heritage Site By Augusto Villalon Philippine Daily Inquirer

» Calle Crisologo - Mena Crisologo Street.

» Mena Pecson Crisologo. Ilocano Writer and Politician. National Historical Institute 

» UNESCO Heritage Village of Vigan Virtual walkthrough 

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Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos

If there is one lesson I have discovered over my travel experiences is that you need to be very creative when coordinating your gigs in order to cover and experience what a place can offer. For instance, a place like Ilocos offers lots of interesting spots to visit so if you are there for a quick weekend getaway you need to apply guerilla tactics to truly enjoy Ilocandia’s chopsuey of travel destinations.

So we’ve already successfully visited Ilocos Norte’s major tourist destinations starting from Laoag to Pagudpud going to Batac. Based on our Ilocos Tour Itinerary, our final destination before heading back to Manila is the famous Calle Crisologo in Vigan City – yep, we saved the best for last.

Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur (Laoag - Vigan) Tourist Map - CLICK IMAGE TO VIEW LARGER MAP

However, we found out that there are other interesting places in Ilocos that we can quickly visit on our way to the famous Vigan Heritage Village.

Here are the five interesting places in Ilocos that you can quickly visit on your way out going to Manila:      

1. ILOCOS NORTE SAND DUNES – The Desert of the North 

The Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes, also called the La Paz sand dunes, is unique on this part of the Philippines. It stretches from the municipality of Currimao in the north and winds it’s way to La Paz, Laoag City, then to Suba, Paoay and finally in Pasuquin in the south with a total of 52 square miles.

Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes

This is also the favorite shooting location for local as well as international films such as the Nora Aunor’s “Walang Himala” flick, Fernado Poe’s “Panday” and Tom Cruise’s “Born on the Fourth of July.” The area is now famous for sandboarding and other eco-adventure activities.

We got lost looking for this place and when we saw some sandy hills, we just took pictures and immediately leave because we can’t stand the heat.

2. MALACAÑANG PALACE OF THE NORTH

Along the lazy shores of Paoay Lake stands an imposing structure that remains true to the old-rich Spanish architecture of the province — the Malacañang of the North, also known in the local dialect as Malacañang ti Amianan.

Back Entrance of the Malacañang of the North

It romantically overlooks serene Paoay Lake and was the residence of former President Marcos and his family while they were in the North. It reflects the grandeur of the Marcos family - the power they once held, the wealth that they possess, and the love and reverence of the Ilocanos for the Marcoses. The Malacanang of the North is actually a "birthday gift" of then First Lady Imelda Marcos to her husband on his 60th birthday.When it was built in 1977, Malacanang of the North became the venue of the trendiest high society settings.

3. PAGBURNAYAN POTTERY

Potter showing his skills

For a quaint Ilocandia travel experience and interaction with the craftsmen, a visit to the Pagburnayan (pottery making) in Vigan City is a nice option. We quickly visited this place and was treated with a show of Ilocano craftsmanship in pottery making using old school manual potter’s wheel method. 

Finished clay pots ready for shipment

The root word “burnay” is an earthenware jar crafted by a potter’s hands with the aid of a potter’s wheel. It uses fine sand (anay) as a tempering material and fired at a high temperature in a huge brick-and-clay ground kiln that makes it is harder and more durable than other terra cotta.

Curio items outside the pottery

This is also the place where you can buy clay pots, statues, home accents and other curio items at give-away prices. 

4. BALUARTE – Chavit Singson’s Zoo

Baluarte ni Chavit - Main Ground

I am always against zoos and caged animals, but since we are at the area, we took a peek at Chavit’s expensive hobby – his famous Baluarte located in Salindeg, Vigan.

Showy Rare White Peacock is the favorite among the animals

It is a large chunk of Vigan set in rolling terrains, hills and mountain sides with structures and facilities that tries to imitate, without success, the natural habitat of wild and exotic animals  - really entertaining for children.

5. The HIDDEN GARDEN in Vigan

Beautiful ornamental plants at the Hidden Garden

Hidden Garden is Located in Bulala (a barrio known for its making of bricks, pots, and other objects made of clay). It is a wonderland of greenery, with a mini-snack bar nestled somewhere in the middle. The whole garden is full of decorative flowering plants, bonsai, and other shrubs set in garden pots, appropriately accented by garden statues and decorations.

Hidden Garden Cafe and Restaurant serving Ilocos cuisine

Hidden Garden definitely has a relaxing ambiance. Hence, dining experience at their restaurant would be awesome but we are in a hurry so we just took some pictures. 

FINAL NOTE

There are other interesting places you can visit in Vigan City, such as the Father Jose Burgos Museum, Mirra Hills and St. Paul Cathedral if you have time. But if you are on a two-day guerilla tour like us, you might want to trim the list down. Of course you wouldn’t want to miss Calle Crisologo which is the most famous (and overrated) tourist spot in Vigan.

On my next post, I will be sharing my memory lane walk at Calle Crisologo, which will be the last post on this Ilocos Tour series. Stay tuned! 


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Planning an Ilocos Tour? 

You might want to check out my detailed account of our Ilocandia Time Travel Series

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past 

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 Citations:
» Laoag Vigan Tourist map courtesy of EZMaps

Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage

I had already poked my head into enough elegant churches in Bohol and other old towns in the Philippines but I should not miss Paoay Church, although I used to think all Spanish-era churches in the Philippines are alike. San Agustin Church in Ilocos Norte, popularly known as Paoay Church is definitely unique.  

The uniqueness of this church lies in the unceasing nature of its struggles against time and the history it depicts, in its dramatic architecture and the mysterious heresy hidden within its elaborate brick design.
 
I approached the church from a nearby dry and impotent brick fountain, excited like a virgin bride walking at the long patio decorated by white bougainvilleas at each side. Waiting for me at the other end is the pyramidal and deliberately flat church façade like an unlit altar, gray yet graceful against Ilocandia’s arid air. Above me are dark clouds stripped of its silver lining, painted like the church’s high frescoes, tragic like the life of Judas.

View of Paoay Church from the fountain

But halfway through the patio, I heard it. This church is whispering heresies of the past. Its fourteen buttresses are like old papyrus, documenting the fusion of the conquistadores and the pagans.

“Sic transit gloria mundi,” thus passes the glory of the world, wrote the monk Thomas à Kempis. The survival of churches through time, architecturally and historically, is a subject matter for the architects and historians. My reaction or theory about this specific church, about it being architecturally heretic is mine alone. But let me expound.

Paoay Church history

The Official Marker: WORLD HERITAGE SITE, Church of San Agustin Paoay Ilocos Norte. One of the four Baroque Churches of the Philippines inscribed in 1993 on the World Heritage List pursuant to the 1972 UNESCO Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage. The Church of San Agustin possesses exceptional universal value the deserves protection for the benefit of humanity. 

Paoay Church is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, under the Philippines four Barqoue Churches collection composed of San Agustin Church in Manila, Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion in Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur and Sto. Tomas de Villanueva Church in Miag-ao, Iloilo. It is currently a property of the Diocese of Laoag, Ilocos Norte.

Church main altar and roof under renovation

According to the official historical marker at the entrance of the church, the parish was founded by Augustinian missionaries in 1593, cornerstone of church laid 1704; of convent, 1707; of tower, 1793. It was used before completion and kept in repair by the people under joint auspices of the Church and the town officials. An inauguration ceremony was held 28 February 1896.

The bell tower

It was damaged by earthquake in 1706 and 1927. Katipuneros used its tower as observation post during the Revolution and by Guerilleros during the Japanese occupation in World War II.    

The massive coral stone bell tower, which was added half a century after the church was completed, stands at some distance from the church, again as a protection against damage during earthquakes.
According to historians, the bell tower also served as a status symbol for the locals. The bell would ring more loudly and more times during the wedding of a prominent clan that it would during the wedding of the poor.

Earthquake Baroque

As reported by Jorge Gazaneo of ICOMOS, “Philippine church is a completed example of one are peiod, but a living document of how time and context have left traces on the early founding intentions of the original designer-builder… on the cross roads of different cultures – Malay, Chinese, European, American, Mexico-Peru – the architecture and art of the Philippines should be valued on standards different from those developed by European Scholars…Unity and authenticity are difficult to be expected in theis part of the world, a violent frontier knowing the ravages of war, heavy typhoons and repeated violent earthquake destruction.”

Paoay Church is the most outstanding example in the Philippines of 'Earthquake Baroque' due to its unique combination of Gothic and Oriental designs. Its façade reveals Gothic designs, its gables show Chinese elements, while the niches topping the walls suggest Javanese influence like the towers of the famous Boroboudur Temple in Central Java, Indonesia. It is interesting to note that the town of Paoay is called "Bombay" in early documents, in keeping with the legend that the earliest inhabitants came from India.

Javanese influence on the Church's buttresses like the towers of the famous Boroboudur Temple in Central Java, Indonesia.

It has fourteen buttresses ranged along the lines of a giant volute supporting a smaller one and surmounted by pyramidal finials. Its details are inspired by the seal of Saint Agustine, the emblem of the king of Spain, the logo of the Pope, the “init-tao” or the sun god, and stylized Chinese clouds.

Fusion of the obvious

Because of its difficult terrain, arid temperature and threat of earthquakes, Ilocos was once described as a “God-forsaken land” and it is said that you have to have the “patience of a spider” in order to survive it. But Ilocanos, hardy people that they are, not only survived in this formidable land but were able to turn this highland country into “God’s own paradise”.

It is but fitting that they dedicate their church to St. Augustine. Aurelius Augustinus Hipponensis (St. Augustine), the philosopher, spoke with mechanical fluency when he proved in his book “The City of God [against the Pagans] (Book III)]” that external and bodily disasters including moral and spiritual calamities are happening to the Romans; and that even when the false gods were worshipped without a rival, before the advent of Christ, they afforded no relief from such calamities.

 
Naturally, they build Paoay Church to withstand and defy acts of God. The Augustinians forced the naturally-born pagans to build this church. But these converts have their own memory and obsession with heritage, beliefs and superstitions, thus the Javanese, Chinese and Oriental influences in the design. 

Until now, the picturesque front garden of the San Agustin Church is being used for rituals known as the Guling-guling festival, an annual festivity that signifies the last day of merrymaking before the Catholic community's observance of the Lenten Season. There are those who conjecture that there is probably a pagan underpinning to the practice, similar to Valentine’s Day; the tradition that places the birth of Jesus in late December, the darkest time of the year; and the timing for Easter right after the vernal equinox. 

Paoay Church is truly the fusion of Catholicism and the pagans.

Final Note

New developments are under way for Paoay Church aside from restoration, which aims to make the province of Ilocos Norte the country’s “northern gateway.” To generate more tourist activities, the provincial government of Ilocos Norte announced a plan to put up a commercial arcade, which would feature the town’s unique products along a stretch of the road lining the Paoay Church.

Aesthetically, I don’t know if these commercial establishments will do any good, so you have to visit Paoay before it becomes a commercial-church. 

We, Filipinos are always trying to find what old memories look like… our obsession with heritage is always there, searching within the artificial and re-engineered versions created by our invaders.

Paoay Church does renders Ilocandia as forever enchanting and continues to make its visitors have a taste of past life back in times like in the decade when it was first completed. 

Back in the days, when Filipinos are born pagans.

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HERE ARE THE DETAILED POSTS ABOUT OUR  Ilocandia Time Travel

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos 
• Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past

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References and Citations:
» Wikipedia Entry “Paoay Church” [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» UNESCO Advisory Body Evaluation. Baroque Churches of the Philippines [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» Patrimonium-mundi.org : Paoay Church panophotographies - immersive and interactive spherical images
» St. Augustine. Aurelius Augustinus Hipponensis.  “De Civitate Dei contra Paganos [Concerning the] The City of God [against the Pagans] (Book III)]” Translated by Marcus Dods. From Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, First Series, Vol. 2. Edited by Philip Schaff. (Buffalo, NY: Christian Literature Publishing Co., 1887.) Revised and edited for New Advent by Kevin Knight.
» Boredpanda.com “50 Most Extraordinary Churches of the World”
» De Jesus, Noel F. Manila Bulletin “Charms of the Old World” Posted: June 5, 2011, 10:58am [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» The Philippine Star. “Guling Guling of Paoay: Truly a galing galing festivity!” Updated March 06, 2011 12:00 AM [Retrieved: 05 September 2011]
» Rene Guatlo “Paoay sways to Guling Guling” Inquirer Lifestyle. Philippine Daily Inquirer. 03/15/2009.
» CBCP News “300-year old Paoay Church to get facelift” Posted: March 15, 2011
» ALL PHOTOS on this post are taken by the author YODZ Insigne via Samsung Galaxy S Smartphone 

Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town

My Ilocondia getaway seems rather uneventful in the retelling. I know. And it surprises me a little to say that my travel experiences in Ilocos has become a meaningful part of my summer which was rather really short and scorching, maybe because of climate change or maybe because it is naturally hot in Ilocos. I review my Ilocos tour blog posts and realized that they are sprinkled with subtleties – an unconscious way of looking at things and at life. The reason maybe has as much, or more, to do with life context as with the Province of Ilocos. Ilocandia makes me feel old and think old, and I like it.

It’s an odd thing, probably no decent Filipino would think or consider, but upon entering any old town in the Philippines with century old church at its center, I always felt that Filipinos don’t really have a nation as the Spaniards or as the Japanese do. We are just a persecuted minority. That’s what they’ve done to us.

View of Immaculate Conception Church at Batac City Central square

 

However, upon entering Batac, the quaint town in the province of Ilocos Norte and hometown of many significant figures in the history of the Philippines, the seat of Marcos’ enigma, I realized that the fabric of Filipino society – the culture, rules and laws and customs that we lived by – is reflected in direct proportion to how many revolutions we had and how many uprisings we are still planning. When we pause and stop, that is the only time we will have a nation. When the Filipinos stopped being angry.

Marcos during wartime in the Philippine Army

Pardon me, but this is how Batac City makes me feel. I admit I’m born a little late for the revolution. I’m just a child then in Mindoro, happily playing and jumping at the haystack after the palay harvest oblivious of nuns and freedom fighters chanting Hail Marys against tanks in EDSA.

I don’t know why I feel this compulsion to understand – maybe because the body of the greatest leader for the Ilocanos and a usurper and dictator for the human rights victims lies here.

But wait, before we move on, let me grab one of those famous Ilocos Empanada and a bowl of miki at the Riverside Empanadahan.  [gutom lang siguro to.]

Batac Riverside Empanadahan

The Marcos Museum and Mausoleum

There is something about my Batac experience that I find disturbing. It is the famous preserved body of the late Philippine President Ferdinand E. Marcos in a refrigerated glass crypt for public viewing – which, to my surprise is actually a wax!

Marcos has a wall dedicated to Marcos' wartime service in the Philippine Army, as a soldier in the defense of Bataan and with American Forces after liberation. There are also photos of him and Imelda, his military awards, his letters, important documents, license plates of his cars, the bust of the president and his work desk at Malacanang.

The Marcos Museum is a large stately tomb supposedly housing Marcos’ embalmed remains, which is contained in a vacuum-sealed glass coffin. It is the first structure seen from the main street and is the one, which follows the lines of a Spanish wood-and-brick house, with solid ground floor walls and an upper storey of wood decorated with floral carvings. The Mausoleum is a cube of adobe blocks and is stepped towards the top of the structure. Its centerpiece is the body of Ferdinand Marcos encased in glass, dressed in a white barong tagalog with a red, white and blue ceremonial sash and polished medals. The dark interior is divided into a square path lining the elevated glass coffin with white capiz flowers and shells underfoot. The dark echoing room is eerily filled with Gregorian chants like summoning Ferdinand to come alive.   

It would be hard to classify me as credulous and uncritical – because I firmly believe that – with the right level of common sense, you can instantly know what you’re looking at. Some insisted it’s the actual body of Ferdinand Marcos, but let’s face it, those who are saying it are blind loyalists. See it for yourself.

Batac World Peace Center and Photo Gallery  

A few blocks away from the Mausoleum is the Marcos Photo Gallery (World Peace Center), a photo archive of the Marcos family which include a collage of news clippings and photos during the Marcos era. 

Gregorio Aglipay Monument and Church

Across the gallery is the Iglesia Filipina Independiente Church, which was founded by Msgr. Gregorio L. Aglipay. Gregorio Aglipay was a former Catholic priest who, due to his support for the Philippine Revolution, was excommunicated and later on founded the Philippine Independent Church aka the Iglesia Filipina Independiente (IFI).

The final argument

The title of this post caused me a lot of trouble. I thought it was brilliant like the treason of the intellectuals theme but unfortunately when I came to write the body to go with it, I found difficulty in making a match – maybe because I am not there at the EDSA revolution. For a while it seemed that my post was leading only to Batac and understanding Marcos and its symbolism but it did give me reason to traipse around Aglipay Shrine, meet peace loving and friendly Batacqueños, have a bite of their famous Empanada, miki and bagnet.

I gathered a fair amount of sense of history on my short stop to Batac City. There is, however no time to go into analysis of the contrasting beliefs of Marcos’ state funeral at the Libingan ng mga Bayani, and of the distinct political and religious circumstances and debate surrounding the Marcos-Aquino-EDSA names.

But one thing is for sure, Batac is still a loyalist, forever arguing that no dictator ever lived in the Home of Great Leaders. Visit Batac so you’ll understand.

    
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Batac City Ilocos Norte Quick Facts:

• Batac is located in the mid southwestern portion of the province of Ilocos Norte.
• The town was founded by the Augustinians in 1587 under the patronage of the Immaculate Conception.
• The word "Batac" in a local dialect translates as "pull". More loosely, it refers to "the people's pulling their efforts together."
• Travel time by motor vehicle at this time is very convenient because of well paved roads and is 15 to 20 minutes to Laoag City and 8 to 9 hours to Metro Manila.
• On February 2011, the supreme court upheld the cityhood of Batac
• Major event is the of City Charter Day which highlights the Empanada Festival, a showcase of the famous product- the BATAC EMPANADA held every June 23rd.

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HERE ARE THE DETAILED POSTS ABOUT OUR  Ilocandia Time Travel

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos 
• Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past

 

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References:

»  Official websiteof the City of Batac: http://www.batac.gov.ph/
» “Batac” Wikipedia Entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batac

Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?

"When you're at the end of the road, And you lost all sense of control, 

And your thoughts have taken their toll, When your mind breaks the spirit of your soul

Your faith walks on broken glass, And the hangover doesn't pass, Nothing's ever built to last

You're in ruins"

[21 Guns – Green Day]

They are wrong. It is not a "Lover’s Rock," it is a metaphorical monument for our wrong choices in life. Bantay Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock are solid reflections of us being victims of our own poor choices. Sometimes in our foolish search for greener pasture, adventure and material happiness we struggled to leave the protection and safety of the cave only to get stuck in the middle of nowhere, drowned by the sea of human ambitions, leaving us confused and beaten.

But would you rather leave and experience pain than stay? How would you know what’s the right choice? Is there such a thing as end of the road? Ahhh, another bouts of my dusty foot philosophy. Allow me to expound.

The prodigal rock

Timmangtang rock is like the prodigal part of the Bantay Abot Cave. He left the cave for foolish adventure, only to get stuck a few kilometers away from the protection of the cave, now immobilized along the shore and partly by the sea. This sad rock is now looking at the cave, longing to fill that hole he foolishly created when he left, longing to come back but he can’t, even if he is so near. That is the prize he pays for the poor choices he made. Then like the Timmangtang rock I realized that life is a one-way ticket – there’s no coming back.   

That feeling of apprehension was what struck me on that particular day on our Ilocos tour as I approached and captured that scene along the seacoast of Sitio Gaoa, Balaoi, Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte. It wasn’t really intentional and I actually hate it when I see things differently. But I can’t help it, and maybe that’s the whole point of this mania for wandering. We travel to see things differently – others are just afraid to admit that.   

Or maybe I travel to hunt and confront my own demon, because you can actually find your demon in some tropical paradise – those self-righteous priests who told us demons are in hell are fools. However, that thought makes me feel unsettled because when I find my demon I am not sure what to do with it. Say hi perhaps? Ask for guidance or wrestle with it? Because the last time I met my demon, it almost killed me by stoning me with regrets.

The hole in the mountain

On the far side across the dark waves is the Bantay Abot Cave. It is not your typical cave but actually a hole in the foot of the mountain like a mysterious gateway to the netherworld or some unknown universe. Then again I put the meaning of this cave into question.

I put the pieces together and realized that this hole was left by Timmangtang rock in his pursuit for pleasure, which bring him pain and misfortune. If we carefully examine this metaphor we will realize that we are actually connected with each other.

Ironically, when we try to get away from the discomfort by pursuing the supposed solutions we crafted, or to just pursue that nagging sense of adventure, we leave a hole in the heart and soul of those we left behind. So precious we are, in our physical imperfections - unique in our myriad selves that we leave behind us a gaping void when we breakaway for whatever reason. Sometimes it becomes like a tiny black hole, a vortex that can pull demons.

As long as we pursue the false hopes of finding happiness on worldly attachments, as long as we flee the infinite stillness that our personal cave can offer, how can this emptiness, this hole we created by separation be truly filled?

Many died without finding that missing piece, leaving this physical world without really discerning the true image of the puzzle.

But some find the answer and filled that echoing emptiness. How they do it, I don’t know.

Like a liar

So would you rather leave the cave and explore the world? If you find there’s really that end of the road would you come back?

And, if you return what would you find? Who would be there, at the center of the hole you created?

Maybe the pursuit of such questions in contemplation while visiting places will give us some answers.

Or we will end up "like a liar looking for forgiveness from a stone…."

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HERE ARE THE DETAILED POSTS ABOUT OUR  Ilocandia Time Travel

• Ilocos Tour » Laoag-Pagudpod-Vigan Impromptu Weekend Getaway
• Ilocos Tour – Laoag, City of Sunshine » Waking up in the Sparkling Gem of Ilocandia
• Ilocos Tour » Sinking Bell Tower and McDonalds’ Rising Golden Arch 
• Cape Bojeador Lighthouse » Death of Elegance, Creepy Tales and A Spark of Wisdom 
• Bangui Windmills » Catching Scattered Memories Beyond the Wind  
• Pagudpud Beach in Saud, Ilocos Norte » Detecting Your Average Summer Happiness Level 
• Kabigan Falls, Pagudpud Ilocos Norte » The Best Lazy Trekking to Waterfalls in Ilocandia
• Jun and Carol Beach Resort Review » Affordable Pagudpud Beach Front Accommodation
• Patapat Viaduct and Kalbario Patapat Natural Park » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop 
• Magical Blue Lagoon and the Cascading Agua Grande » Pagudpud Tricycle Tour Pit Stop
• Allegory of the Bantay-Abot Cave and Timmangtang Rock » Is there such a thing as end-of-the-road?
• Batac City, Ilocos Norte » Understanding the Final Argument of a Dictator's Town 
• Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte » Architectural Heresy and Our Obsession with Heritage 
• Ilocos Tour - Guerilla Style » 5 Interesting Places to Visit On Your Way Out of Ilocos 
• Calle Crisologo Vigan Ilocos Sur » Sojourn to the Past

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Citations and Notes:

» Ending quotation was lifted from the lyrics of the song "21 Guns" by Green Day

» All photos are taken by the author: Samsung Galaxy S mobile phone photography
» Note: This post is the last part of the PAGUDPUD TRICYCLE TOUR SERIES.(Part III of III)